Estonia is probably the most-visited Baltic state, having easy ferry access to Helsinki. Side 1 is devoted to Tallinn, the country capital, with its double wall enclosing the ancient old town and extending to the lower new town. Both are within easy walking distance of the ferry terminal or railway station. Most of the hotels are located in the lower town. The city has an excellent tram system, but both the old and the lower town areas are largely walking precincts. The country fills the second side. Estonia is a compact country, with a very good road network, and easy to drive around. The eastern city of Tartu is close to Lake Peipus, which is shared with not-so-friendly neighbouring Russia. Being a member of the EU, access is as easy as for any country in the EU, and as a member of NATO, is a bulwark against Russian expansion. The offshore islands of Saaremaa and Kardla are easily reached by ferries. The map includes numerous capsule comments related to Estonia and its historic heritage.